In 1647, the women of the Bregenzerwald marched bravely against Swedish invaders. Upon seeing the women all dressed in white, the soldiers turned and ran—having mistaken them for angels.
Or so legend has it. Dark skirts were later adopted, largely thanks to the globetrotting men of the region. They were in such great demand across Europe as craftsmen and master builders that the women were often left to tend—and defend—their home for extended periods. When the men returned, they would bring furs, jewelry, and exotic fabrics that gradually transformed the traditional Bregenzerwald costume, known as the Juppe, with decidedly international flair.
Still worn today, the Juppe features a long, tightly pleated skirt, lavish sleeves and a fitted, embroidered bodice. Both the costume’s name and the skirt’s shape derive from the French word jupe. Spanish influences can be seen in the contemporary black color and a wide-brimmed straw hat, while Russian design inspired a chic fur-trimmed cap. Since 1560, when a head covering became required outside the home, the hat has been the crowning glory to the majestically shimmering costume. Angelika Kauffmann, the famous artist and dear friend of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, set the tone in 1781 with a self-portrait in which she wears the Juppe and a beribboned black hat pitched at a rakish angle.
Today, the Juppe is still custom-made in Riefensberg, in a workshop that also serves as a museum. On a guided tour, you can learn about each step in the design process, from achieving its shimmer to the detailed pleating, and see this costume’s evolution of styles from warrior angel to courtly elegance.
USEFUL LINKS:
Workshop and museum in modern, architecturally inspiring rooms in a 350-year old house. From May to October.
www.juppenwerkstatt.at (German)
The Verein Juppenwerkstatt Riefensberg is an association that offers guided tours as an introduction to the entire work process. Guided tours of the Juppenwerkstatt can be booked with Frau Karoline Willi in the Riefensberg Tourist Office.
www.riefensberg.at (German)
