In Tirol, the raucous celebrations marking Fasnacht involve such elaborate preparation that some villages only stage them every four or five years.
Leading up to the big day just before Lent, towns across Tirol devote months to building extravagant floats and resurrecting carnival figures with outrageous costumes, wigs, and masks designed strictly according to tradition. The whole community participates and though only men perform in the procession, talented women customize the make-up and costumes for each character.
At the stunning Schemenlaufen in Imst, 900 men hop, leap, dance, and make music as they parade through the streets. Characters wielding water pistols (Spritzer), round sacks (Sackner), and powderpuffs (Kübelemaje) keep the crowd at bay, while barking witches in wide skirts and pigtails raise their brooms and dance. The Roller and Scheller, stars of the show, appear in giant headdresses and ring handmade cow bells as they dance and jump. Their highly expressive masks draw everyone’s attention: Mature, striking masculinity marks the Scheller’s mask with beard and bushy eyebrows, while the Roller’s is light, youthful playfulness with feminine eyes, rosy cheeks and a smiling mouth. The entire spectacle celebrates spring’s triumph over winter.
Other standout celebrations can be found with the Matschgerer figures in Absam, the Schleicherlaufen in Telfs, the pulling of a 6-ton pine in Fiss’ Blochziehen, and the exquisite hand-carved masks in Nassereith’s Schellenlaufen. Wherever you celebrate Fasnacht, you’re sure to be warmed by the spirit of tradition—and perhaps a sampling of local schnapps.
USEFUL LINKS:
Schemenlaufen in Imst – next date: 12.2.2012 – www.imst.at
Nassereither Schellenlaufen – next date 3.2.2013 – www.fasnacht-nassereith.at (German)
Schleicherlaufen in Telfs – next date: 1.2.2015 – www.schleicherlaufen.at (German)
Wampelerreiten in Axams – next date: 16.2.2012 – www.wampelerreiten.com (German)
Fasnachtsmuseum in Nassereith – during the Fasnacht period, the museum is either closed or can only be visited in parts – www.fasnacht-nassereith.at/fasnachtsmuseum (German)
Tiroler Landesmuseum – Museum of Folk Art – the main themes covered in the Tirol Museum of Folk Art are arts and crafts, domestic industry, popular religious faith, masks and costumes – http://www.tiroler-landesmuseum.at/html.php/en/volkskunstmuseum
Carving courses at the Geisler – Moroder Carving School in Elbigenalp offers courses in making carved masks – www.schnitzschule.com
